Once, as I was approaching old age, someone asked me: Is there any statement through which you present yourself, from your birth until today, which might serve as a succinct statement of your self-understanding, a statement that does not detract anything from you, and you would be eager to remain on it, since there would be nothing else which people compound to it as of your identity? I said to him: “I am a poor boy from Ḥāret al-Naṣara [the Christian quarter]”.
At my childhood I did not know the meaning of ‘naṣara’ [the Islamic term for Christians], since my people were not using it. It is a word from the Qur῾an and also from the civil organization at the era when the Arabs had invaded our countries. The political and the constructive notion behind the term is that those who were called by the Arabs naṣara, while they call themselves Christians, should gather in one quarter, around their church so that they may remain under the protection of Islamic rule, and the rabbles would not assault them. At that time I could not understand why it happens that someone might assault them. What have they done? As I became a young man I started to understand that there is someone to attack any community in the world, regardless whether it committed a fault or no. And this is written in books, or sometimes the books come from people.
However before I was born, namely centuries after the emergence of the law of protection for naṣara, Christians have started to live far from the church. They started to intermingle with other people of the country, and none of the two groups has had the responsibility of protecting the Other. This was so since after the Ottomans were associated with the West they said to their subject-citizens: you are all citizens and whenever the Ottoman nation is assaulted, the Ottoman Christian will be taken to war. Thus, the Christian knew that the sultanate is one since death is one, and many legislations had shown that this people is one.
Once I asked someone: Why is it that if our [two] social segments are neighboring each other at the gate of Haddadin in Tripoli and if all are working together in the same market, there remains no need that any of the two groups protect the Other, rather good neighborliness remains the norm? And good neighborliness arises from the neighbor’s kinship to the Other or the collegiality in work, and no one asks the Other about the quarter where he/[she] rents a house. They converse together and each of them respects the traditions of the Other. One morning, I was visiting a friend in Ramadan. He said to me: forgive me, I cannot offer coffee to you, since we are fasting. I said: I would not expect anything else. And whenever [the neighboring groups] spend the night together they do that with yearning.
All over the people of the city, the Christian quarter has remained and also at its borders the Jewish quarter. Since the Jewish quarter was a different civil entity, I had never thought about crossing it or entering the synagogue. Each group was [for the second group] the Other.
I have not remarked any partisanship in the Christian quarter, or any disparity among its families. Perhaps what has united them was this church existing in their midst. They were always around it, so that whenever the bell chimes they know for example that it is the Vespers, and some of them run to it and at the end of the prayer they return to their houses to have dinner, or stay up a little with the relatives, regardless whether the distance was big, since cars were not common for the non-wealthy people. And in case you visit them they receive you though they would not know previously about your visit, and sometimes they converse about some interesting issues.
I remember that my father was a good converser and he would not depend, for his talks, on the newspapers, which he used to skim. He used to talk about his experience with the Turks. He never hated them. They were [for him] the masters of the war. We have never asked why we fight for them. They were the masters of the country. And we were dying at the waterway, that is the Suez Canal, or return from it, or from Baalbek, after we pay the recompense.
The educated ones were saying that they were Arabs. This notion has emerged in Paris, among its Maronites residents, who were writing in French. My parents were saying that they were the kinsmen of Arabs [or the children of Arabs]. How did they find that, I do not know? Only at the end of the First World War the ID cards have appeared and there was a struggle in that concern. However, I remember from the days, at the end of the twenties of the nineteenth century, that the older generation still used to say that we are the kinsmen of Arabs. And whenever they wanted to express about what they feel in their depths they used to say we are Christians, and they meant by it only an affiliation which is not related to this world. The country was at the hands of the Turks, and then, it became at the hands of the French, while they were at the hands of God and God’s Church, around which they used to gather. They have not known anything about a different church; unless when they went to villages for summer resorts, since they knew that other Christians were inhabiting the mountains and that they pray and sing with different languages and different tunes. And I have not felt any partisanship among them, since the Others were the Others.
My people are pastored by priests who would have received basic knowledge which enables them to perform the service. ‘Service’ refers to our liturgies, since the good performance of all the services, though they were many, was the condition to receive priesthood. The Bishop alone would attain full theological knowledge from abroad, and abroad would refer to the countries starting from Constantinople (i.e. Istanbul in Turkish) to Petersburg in Russia, passing by Kiev, Kazan and Moscow, so that every one of our bishops would master Greek, Russian and solid Arabic, which enables him to preach. And the head, or the Bishop, not long ago, used to reside within the church-haven, namely in the Christian quarter.
My father and grandfather were born there, and I used not to go there unless to visit my aunt, who was living with her two sons, after her husband had died in the war with the Turks. My parents, after their wedding, lived in a new quarter called al-zāhiriyya, and then in an Islamic district called bāb al-raml, where I was born. Thus, there was not any affiliation in my identity to the Christian quarter.
Hence, why should I be a poor boy from the Christian quarter? Is it because my grandfather had built the dome of the cathedral there or because in my youth I loved to become rooted in this identity, which has descended upon the people of the quarter from heaven? Where are their origins, other than in heaven? Have I adopted the quarter or it has adopted me, after its people were first called Christians in Antioch (Acts 26: 11)?
It does not worry me that all the people of the quarter, except few, have immigrated. The human being is in immigration to the end of times. What matters is that they are in the Church on Sunday, and they become the Church whenever they receive the body and the blood of the Son of God, so they spread, knowing that they are in the care of God alone and they are to be buried in Christian cemeteries with the saints.
Their comfort is that they carry the Christian quarter in their minds, since their fathers have testified to them, and they will found it in unlimited reaches and teach their children to cross their faces as the sign for the victory that Jesus declared on the wood [the cross]. Their number is not a concern for them, and if the Christian quarter extinguishes, in any sense, they will remember that someone said to them: “I am with you always, to the end of the age” (Matt. 28: 20).
The dome of the cathedral had fallen in the life of my grandfather Georges Khodr, and when he saw it rifting cried out for the believers to come out, and no one of them died, since the heaven was their dome.
We will be scattered in the whole earth. However, this is not a concern. We are not the inhabitants of the earth. Our bodies are here and our heads knock the heavenly throne until the Father sits us with the Son on the right hand of the Father. The Christian quarter is gone. Christians are now retained between heaven and earth, till the Day when the earth passes away.
Translated by Sylvie Avakian-Maamarbashi
Original Text: “حارة النصارى” –An Nahar- 10.03.2012
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